The Black Hills have numerous caves, but the two biggest and most impressive are in the
national parks. I’ve already written about the fascinating Jewel Cave National Monument here, so it’s time to take a look at the more popular of the two, Wind Cave National Park.
Don’t miss the rest of the Black Hills Travelogue, here.
The first thing to know about Wind Cave National Park is that there’s just as much of interest above ground as below. Unlike Jewel Cave, which is a postage stamp surrounded by National Forest land, Wind Cave has over 28,000 acres of prime Bison and Prairie Dog habitat and plenty of wide pullouts for visitors to stop and enjoy the wildlife. The vistas here are rare: natural prairie barely exists in America anymore, and here you can look for miles and see landscapes similar to those encountered by Native Americans before the arrival of European settlers.

The Prairie Dog viewing in this park was the best we saw in the Black Hills, and second only to the viewing opportunities at Devil’s Tower N.M. in Wyoming. So if you’ve got chubby, chirping rodents on the brain, head to Wind Cave.
But most people go here to see what’s underground. And this is where our experience was a bit more mixed. Wind Cave has a plethora of tours – at times as many as 5 – and the selection is a bit confusing. We only had time for one, and so we chose the most popular, the “Garden of Eden” tour. We met the tour at the expansive visitors center:

Parking was tight, but manageable, though we were there during “shoulder season.” Parking could be an issue in the high season. We met our guide under a canopy close to the entrance out back. The tour was huge – at least 30 people, far too large (their limit is 40!). When I did tours of Oregon Caves National Monument as a guide there, we limited ourselves to 12. Sure, Oregon Caves is more hazardous than this relatively unchallenging route, but the smaller group gives the visitor a much better overall experience. There is a definite feeling of a cattle call at Wind Cave.
Visitors enter the cave through a door in the rock and quickly descend down a long, straight slope with stairs and low ceilings. It’s far more closed in than Jewel Cave, so claustrophobes beware. Our guide stopped to show us this cave’s “signature formation” – the speliothem for which the cave is internationally renowned. It’s called “Boxwork” because it looks like a grid of old mail slots. At Oregon Caves we had a couple of small examples of this, but at Wind Cave, the boxwork is everywhere.

What you’re looking are the echoes of cracks in the rock. Water oozes through the cracks and builds up formations in the same shape.

Once we’d seen the boxwork, it was a long slog to the end of the route, which for this tour is a low room with few features where the guide gave us the end of her canned lecture.
And that is my major objection to what’s going on at this cave. The guide was simply awful, and embodied all the major mistakes a tour guide can make: condescending tone; tour content clearly designed for small children with little of interest to adults; inability to answer even basic questions, betraying an underlying lack of knowledge – or care – about the science; and an inability to go off script and adjust to her group. It was like being led around by a computer-automated kindergarten teacher, and I mean no disrespect to kindergarten teachers. That they put this person in what appeared to be a ranger outfit was even more of an insult. I’d rather the Park Service not pretend it has real rangers when in reality it’s just employing part time college kids with no expertise, as was clearly the case here. Put them in another outfit. And don’t call the low-rent staff “rangers.”
Even more amusing (or not), at the beginning of the tour the guide asked us to tell her what other caves we’d been to. I volunteered that I’d worked at Oregon Caves as a guide. She said, “Oh yes, that’s a lava tube cave.” I said no, it’s a karst cave, predominantly marble. She actually disagreed and insisted it was a lava tube cave. I corrected her again and she moved on without acknowledging her mistake. Not only was she generally ignorant of the geology of Wind Cave (dispensing false notions about how long it takes cave formations to form, for example), she was willing to commit to wildly false information just to have something to say.
I really hope the National Park Service eventually recovers from all this endless budget cutting and misguided outsourcing and downgrading, but I’m not optimistic after seeing this.
Logistics: Wind Cave National Park is on the south end of the Black Hills, and borders the southern edge of Custer State Park. It’s easily reached in a day trip from Rapid City, Custer, or Hill City. There is a special cave tour for those with limited mobility, but the Park Service site gives no information on how extensive this tour is, so call ahead to make sure it’s worth your while.
It’s perfectly possible to visit, as we did, both Jewel Cave and Wind Cave on the same day, as both are on the southern end of the hills. You’ll just be doing a lot of stairs.
Parking was limited when we stopped by during the shoulder season and could be an issue during peak times.
Bottom line: if you’re visiting only one cave during your trip to the Black Hills, I recommend Jewel Cave. Though Jewel Cave has fewer formations (except its crazy preponderance of cave popcorn), the formations of interest on the Wind Cave Garden of Eden Tour – the most common tour – were mostly limited to the boxwork. While I nerded out on that fascinating formation, which is at its best in the world in this cave, I know from experience that the average visitor wants either amazing formations to see OR a fantastic guide who can bring the science alive and show them how special the cave is without needing the visual aid of a ten foot column. And this cave just hasn’t made the investment in interpretive staff. I base this not just on our guide, but on conversations I had with 5 other rangers while I was there – only one of them appeared to be experienced and knowledgable, and he wasn’t in the cave.
Jewel Cave, on the other hand, makes up for its lack of large formations with a much more grand, and mysterious, cave environment. And kids will love the cool elevators. The only upside I can see for Wind Cave is a far more developed visitor’s center, so larger families might find it more convenient.
Don’t miss the rest of the Black Hills Travelogue, here.