Go to the California Redwoods Itinerary Main Page
So you decide to go see the redwoods, and figure you’ll just hop on a big jet and be there in no time. Not quite so simple! If you want to see the Redwood Empire, home of the grandest of the tall trees and the most remote, natural expanses of redwoods left on earth, you’ll need to put in a little effort.
Flying in: The Eureka-Arcata Airport (code ACV) is located in neither Eureka, nor Arcata. It is in McKinleyville, several miles north of my delightful home town of Arcata on Highway 101, 300 miles north of San Francisco, and 400 miles south of Portland. Flying into this location can be expensive, so plan ahead. Reserve your rental car in advance to be sure it will be available. Though buses do stop at the airport, the itinerary in this guide (and any decent travel itinerary for this region) requires a car. You may want to know that the airport was built for the purpose of testing defogging systems on military aircraft, due to the frequent fogs in the area; or, then again, you may not. A fun way to take off at the airport is for the plane – preferably one of the turboprops – to shoot off the runway and over the nearby seacliff. You feel as if the world dropped out from underneath you. If the fog is out, you may see spectacular views of the deep green forests of the coast, stepping up in into higher mountains further inland.
Airlines: See the Convention & Visitor’s Bureau sitefor the latest list of airlines; airlines come and go here – in terms of whether they fly at all – with great regularity. There is always some kind of service from San Francisco, usually from United. But connections from Portland, Redding, and Sacramento are less permanent.
Your journey here by air will take an entire day from anywhere except San Francisco. When you transfer to your final leg at SFO or SMF (Sacramento) you’ll most likely get on a small turboprop, a 31-seater with 3 seats across and no usable toilet. The flight is mercifully short.
Arriving from the south you may ride up the California coast, increasingly remote with each mile. You are flying into a tectonic red zone, the conjunction of three tectonic plates near the tiny settlement of Petrolia, and you may swoop over the bald hills sprinkled within the vast forests. On approach, you’ll see remote houses on ridgetops, where some Humboldters make their homesteads with extreme privacy and plenty of natural beauty.
Hotel: You’re staying in my hometown, Arcata, about 10 miles south of the Airport on Highway 101. When staying in Arcata, it’s best to immerse yourself in the place rather than stay at some chain hotel. These choices are all in the historic part of town and are walking distance from most of the shopping and the old Minor Theatre. If you must do the chain hotel routine, all of them are located in an area north of town called “Valley West” – you’ll drive right by it as you come into Arcata from the Airport. Look for hotels with addresses on “Valley West Boulevard”.
The Hotel Arcata
A nice little hotel, the Hotel Arcata isn’t opulent, but it’s above average. It’s location is my primary reason for recommending it – it’s on the Plaza. While the stodgier residents of Humboldt sometimes fear the Plaza, it’s quite safe and full of interesting characters, and not in the “big city” sense of the word. The architecture is delightful Victorian and the shops are excellent. A restored movie house beckons down the street. Outdoor outfitters are just a step away. In any case, this is where you’ll get a real sense of the culture of the town. More on that in the next installment. Ask for a room that looks out onto the plaza side, if possible. Bring earplugs. You never know what’s going to go on out on the Plaza.
The Lady Anne Inn
Victorian B&B in Arcata. Walking distance to Plaza, but it is a few blocks and you’ll walk back up a hill on the way back. No matter. You need the exercise, and it’ll help you see the town.
Turtle Rocks Oceanfront Inn, Trinidad
If you’re not into the people watching, and are willing to stay a bit out of the main towns, this B&B is one of several options in Trinidad, a small village to the north. This location is closer to the parks and attractions north of the main Humboldt Bay area. I don’t have personal experience with the place, but the views look incredible.